While we were in Wilmington, we began to wonder what our endgame was for this northern trek up the east coast. This decision felt pretty important as we were watching hurricanes line up out in the Atlantic. When we started this whole adventure, we had initially thought that if we made it as far as Oriental, NC, we would be good and content with our forward progress and also be outside typical hurricane paths. Given that it was still the middle of July and we had some time before the weather would turn cold, we decided to push on toward our original goal of Oriental for a visit but then continue on up to the Chesapeake Bay. Once in Norfolk, we could visit with Justin’s brother and his family and sail around the bay in/out of cute little towns or into a hurricane hole if needed. To get there, we would need to make quite a few stops, visiting small towns along the ICW.
Beaufort, NC (population 12,960) BOW-firt not BEW-furd
Knowing that we were going to be in the ICW for some time as we made our way to Norfolk, we took advantage of a short weather window to do an offshore, overnight passage from Wilmington to Beaufort, NC. We hadn’t been offshore since our passage to Savannah due offshore evening thunderstorms causing marine warnings and small craft advisories. Going offshore would cut off some ICW miles with a more direct route to Beaufort. We left around noon to motor back down the Cape Fear River and up the ICW to make it to Wrightsville Beach and the Shinn Creek / Masonboro Outlet before dark. We then turned east into the Atlantic for a beautiful sunset and sail before we lost our wind and had to turn the motor on around midnight for the rest of the trip. This leg of the trip was 95.4 nm taking us 20:33 hrs in total. We arrived at the Town Creek Marina just in time for a short walk into town for a late breakfast and a nap. The marina’s floating docks were in great shape and the bathroom/showers were also very clean. There was an expensive restaurant onsite which requires reservations but you can get the same menu at their tiki bar outside.
Of course we ended up staying here longer than expected as storms moved in. However, showers didn’t keep us from exploring the local shops, finding the local farmers market and dining at their eclectic mix of restaurants. Justin even found some time to do some engine maintenance and it was a good thing as our fresh water impeller needed to be replaced. We were super glad that we found it while at dock and not underway.
Oriental, NC (population 896)
Our next stop was Oriental, NC which was only 19 nm and about 4 hours north up the ICW. We had read how this was a mecca for sailors and would be a great place to stay for the winter so we were really excited to check it out. After our short trip in the ICW, we had some confusion with our dockage, as we reserved a slip via phone at Oriental Harbor Village Marina and they assigned us a slip at a different marina, the Oriental Marina & Inn. Apparently the transient slips for both marinas are managed by the same company. Once everything was figured out, we really enjoyed our location with a tiki bar by the pool and the Toucan Grill and a short walk across the street to The Bean for coffee and bagels. The restrooms and showers were clean and towels were provided and the 1 washer/dryer was free to use.
We were very excited to explore Oriental since it is touted as the “Sailing Capital of North Carolina.” Though there is great sailing just outside the jetties and a number of liveaboard marinas with DIY boat yards, we were expecting a bit more from this town. After exploring a bit, we were happy that we had previously decided to not stay here long term and to press on. Oriental is walkable to a few restaurants, shops and the New Village Brewery. The grocery and hardware store were about a mile or so down the road from us, however, they are closer to the working marinas and shipyards. We did enjoy walking through the neighborhoods and even found a tiny beach to watch some waves come in from the Neuse River.
Belhaven, NC (population 1,409)
We were able to get ahead of a storm system and made our way to Belhaven, NC. We were warned that the Pamico Sound could be a bit rocky in weather, so we took the 1st window we had for our 7.5 hour journey. We arrived at the Belhaven Marina on a Monday to find that everything except a lunch counter and a Mexican restaurant were closed until mid week. The marina itself was under construction but they were respectful of guests with noise and equipment. They had large and clean restroom/shower combos and the laundry was free!. They even had a complimentary golf cart to get us to the grocery a couple of miles down the road.
Fun Fact: Belhaven is known as “The Birthplace of the ICW.” The section from Belhaven to Alligator River was the last segment completed on the route to Norfolk and officially opened in 1928.
Columbia, NC (population 849)
Our trip from Belhaven to Columbia started with the other boats at our marina all heading out before the sun. It’s always fun to know that you’ve got friends on the water even if they are faster and leave you behind… We had a lovely 9.5 hour motor through the Pungo and Alligator Rivers to the Alligator River Marina. This is an interesting marina as it is just a convenience store, gas station and restaurant combo. We were one of two cruisers staying at the marina with other full-time fishing boats. The bathroom/showers were clean but were in need of some updating. We were able to get some grab-and-go breakfast sandwiches before we left with the sun the following morning.
Coinjock, NC (population 397)
We arrived at Coinjock Marina after a “quick” 6 hour motor up the ICW across the Albemarle Sound and up the North River. This marina is a destination for many boaters to get a good night’s rest during their travels or just for a great meal at the marina restaurant, “Home of the 32oz prime rib”. From what I can tell, there’s nothing else within walking or probably biking distance from the marina but you are pretty well set with clean bathrooms/showers and a well stocked ship store. It was a great place for us to stop and rest before our final push to Norfolk the following day.
Final Leg to Norfolk, VA
We had over 40nm, through 4 drawbridges, 1 lock, and 4 other drawbridges that “should be open,” to get to our marina. We left before the sun, it was actually still a little too dark, to try and time everything just right. At the time we went though, the Great Bridge Lock was under maintenance and was only really open on the weekends and even then only opens on the even hours. They do have free short-term docks on either side of the lock for those who miss the openings or for those wanting to visit the surrounding park. We got SUPER lucky and hit the Great Bridge, a drawbridge which only opens on the hour and is 0.7 nm before the lock, at 12:00 and all the boats that were at that opening were waved on through to the Great Lock for a 12:00-ish opening. We were quite nervous about possibly having to wait around for over an hour and about going through the lock itself but both were a breeze. The lock attendant even helped with catching lines since the cleats were over my head on the wall.
We arrived at the Waterside Marina in downtown Norfolk after about 8.5 hours. The final portion of our journey allowed us to motor past multiple Navy ships getting repairs or refits in the massive boat yards along the Elizabeth River. Once settled in at the dock, we had our celebratory and customary champagne toast and knew that we had made the right decision to continue north as this location just felt more like “us”. We had also sailed Nymeria into her 8th state and to mile “0” on the ICW. All of this was beyond our expectations. Skål!
Tis a big and beautiful world. Most of us live and die in the same corner where we were born and never get to see any of it. I don’t want to be most of us.
– Oberyn Martell, Game of Thrones
