The Sea of Abaco is split into Northern and Southern portions by a shoal (shallow area) that is 4-5’ deep between Treasure Cay on Great Abaco Island and Whale Cay, which is one of the barrier islands. In order to get from Green Turtle Cay to our next destination, Great Guana Cay, in the southern Abacos, we would have to go around Whale Cay. This passage was only predicted to be about 15 nautical miles but it is notoriously treacherous under the right (or wrong) conditions. They call it a “rage” when the wind driven waves are in opposition to the tide/current resulting in tall standing waves and/or a confused wave experience (think washing machine). On either side, of the Whale, there can be “rage” conditions making the narrow inlets/channels very dangerous to traverse. Knowing that this is a possibility and being the conservative cruisers that we are, we waited for a day with very little/no wind and went around the Cay with the tide just to be safe. We didn’t have any problems and made it through without a hitch.
Once safely around The Whale, we tucked nicely into the Fishers Bay Anchorage just off of Great Guana Cay. This was our home for 2 nights as we endured the spring breakers at Nipper’s and Grabber’s restaurants/bars. We took advantage of the reef being close to the shore just off of Nipper’s beach to get in our first proper snorkel session. The water is still a bit chilly but it was well worth it.
From Great Guana Cay we ventured another 8.6nm SE to the small island of Man-O-War Cay. We were expecting the wind to shift from an E/SE wind to a more W/SW and we needed a more protected anchorage. We were able to snag a Mooring Ball in the Eastern Harbor, which is nicely tucked in behind the island and mangroves. We only spent one night at this charming island meandering the Queens Highway and peeking in on the wooden boat makers. This island is about 2.5 miles long and can be less than 100 meters wide in an area called “The Narrows.” It also has a significant history for boat building with the Albury family dating back to 1798. In 2019, Hurricane Dorian was said to have damaged 90-100% of the structures on the island but it feels like this close knit community is making a strong comeback. Though the island only has the Snacky Shack open for food (check facebook for times), they have a well stocked grocery and a couple of little shops to visit.
With a couple of windy/rainy days in the forecast, we prepped for our first stay in Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco Island. Skål!
