Since our last post, we’ve rebounded from engine and fender challenges. While we were licking our wounds and getting Nymeria back into cruising form, we were also planning out our expectations for the rest of the summer. Even though we made it to Belhaven, NC almost a month earlier than last year, we needed to make some realistic goals for how far north we wanted to go this summer/fall season.
Once we made our teak repairs and set our upcoming cruising goals, we again quickly made our way through the Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds of North Carolina from Belhaven up to Norfolk, VA. With our ultimate goal of playing in the Upper Chesapeake, we only spent a short 3 nights in Norfolk before sailing an overnight/25 hour sail up to Annapolis. Annapolis was the most northern point that we achieved last year and we spent almost 80 days there. This season, we only spent 10 days in Annapolis but it continues to be on a short list of places that we will always want to return to.
Annapolis, the capital of Maryland, is perfectly situated 25 miles south of Baltimore, 30 miles east of Washington D.C. and is just up the Severn River on the Chesapeake Bay. It is also lauded as the “Sailing Capital of the U.S.” with the US Naval Academy and numerous marinas, racing crews and marine services available. We also like Annapolis for being on the Western Shore of the Chesapeake Bay and nicely tucked in from potential storms.
We were technically docked in Eastport, just over the Spa Creek Drawbridge from historic downtown Annapolis. We took to walking the quick mile through quiet neighborhoods and small businesses to get to the variety of restaurants and shopping up and down main street. In calm weather, we took the dinghy to the downtown/waterfront area and for tours on the surrounding rivers. We did get the bikes off the boat for longer trips to West Marine for boat parts.
One of our first stops was to tour the U.S. Naval Academy Museum. The bottom floor displayed the history of the U.S. Seapower and the second floor was dedicated to an extensive ship model collection. We were also lucky enough to be there to watch the Noon Meal Formation, where all USNA midshipmen were present and accounted for prior to marching into the mess hall to “Anchors Aweigh.” We also loved just walking through the campus to take in the landscaping and architecture.
As you all know, we love learning the history of the areas that we travel to and we were not disappointed. Annapolis was settled in 1649 under the name of “Providence” and eventually became Annapolis in 1709. In 1783, Annapolis became the temporary capital of the US with Washington as the Commander-in-chief and the signing of the Treaty of Paris which marked the end of the Revolutionary War. We were able to tour The Maryland State House and its original and current chambers for the Senate and House of Delegates. We even got to step into The Maryland Inn, which was built in 1721. The historic streets radiate from the waterfront out to residential areas, shops and state houses. Each and every street holds a unique row of buildings to view and was especially a sight to see as the leaves started to turn from greens to reds and yellows.
Last year, we were able to get a monthly contract at The Marina at Nautilus Point and used it as a “home base” for a couple of months. The monthly rate was the lowest available in the area and it was only one of 2 marinas that had long term slips available during the October boat shows. The marina did include workout and pool facilities but their boater amenities are lacking. The boater’s lounge and bathroom/shower combos were not very clean and were often unexpectedly locked or full of local teens or staff members taking a break. Laundry was located in the adjacent apartment complex which required a separate pin to access. The fixed docks are in ok-ish condition but the locals recommended that we only tie to the pilings since the cleats had pulled out in past storms. If we didn’t receive such a great deal, we would have moved on to a different marina.
Also last year, The Rigging Company was contracted to inspect all of our rigging but especially the shrouds (cables that hold up the mast on the sides) and chainplates (they attach the shrouds to the hull of the boat). They were able to determine that our chainplates needed to be reworked and resealed to prevent more corrosion and leaking. (See a short video that Justin made showing the process) Of course the process took longer and was more expensive than expected but will be much more confident in our rig in big wind and waves.
This year, we stayed at South Annapolis Yachting Centre which was definitely multiple steps up from our situation last year. We enjoyed clean showers/restrooms as well as a small workout room. They even had outdoor showers that were available. We also loved their pristine long floating docks and protection from winds/waves in all directions. The only minor inconvenience about this marina was that it is on the other side of the Spa Creek Bascule Bridge that only opens on the hour and half hour.
We’ve also used Annapolis as our go-to tattoo location. Last year we celebrated a successful trip from Texas and up the east coast to the Upper Chesapeake. We were so excited to have made it to Annapolis, which was further north than we had initially anticipated. This year we wanted to get a swallow tattoo in order to commemorate the moment that we reached 5000 nautical miles (=5754 statute miles) sailed, starting with leaving Texas in January of 2023 and reaching Annapolis in August 2024. A special thanks to Ari (my tattoos) and Mitch (Justin’s tattoos) at Dapper Dog Tattoo for their awesome and consistent work.
Though we love Annapolis, we were able to resist it’s sticky bottom this year and head further up the Chesapeake to our next stop, Baltimore. (Cue the music “Way Down in the Hole” from HBOs The Wire).
Vixi Liber Et Moriar
“I have lived, and shall die, free”
– Annapolis Motto
