Baltimore: Bewitched by “Charm City”

Baltimore: Bewitched by “Charm City”

When asking the locals if we should go to Baltimore, we got mixed reviews. Most said that we should go because it’s a fun time but others were concerned about safety when out and about, especially after dark. We had just started a marathon of HBO’s “The Wire”, so we could see where they could be concerned but we also wanted to keep an open mind and give it a chance. Apparently, Baltimore was given the nickname of “Charm City” about 40 years ago in order to change others perception of the town away from it’s other nicknames of “Mobtown” and “Bodymore.” Our first short trip to Baltimore was after leaving Annapolis and we loved the city and the inner harbor  so much that we decided that, after turning around at Delaware City, it was where we wanted to do our boat work and hang out for a bit before we head back down south again.

On our 1st trip to Baltimore, we spent a lovely 11 days at the Inner Harbor Marina. This marina is one of the few on the south side of the harbor, making it closest to the restaurants and nightlife (if you’re into that sort of thing) of Federal Hill. Inner Harbor, like most marinas in Baltimore, are managed by Oasis Marinas and their rates are relatively inexpensive, depending on the time of year and holiday season. We were told that the city of Baltimore subsidizes the marina to keep slips open for and relatively inexpensive for transients like us. 

After a short haul-out of the boat (more on that in the next post), we moved to Anchorage Marina. Anchorage is also on the north side of the harbor toward the eastern side and closer to a grocery, Ace Hardware and West Marine for supplies. It’s still within walking distance to most things along the harbor but having a bike is also a must to get around. We specifically chose this marina because of its cost and location. Since it’s not an Oasis Marina, it was one of the few marinas in the area which offered an affordable and discounted monthly rate while we worked on boat projects and traveled to visit family. The slips also have full floating piers on either side of the boat which we were needing in order to finish our teak repair and varnish work. If you’re looking for a no-frills marina close to amenities, this is a great option in Baltimore.

Part of the city’s charm was passing Fort McHenry on the way into the harbor. The fort is strategically placed at the mouth of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, at the north end of the Patapsco River. In the summer of 1813, Major Armistead commissioned a large flag from Mary Pickersgill, a ship and signal flag maker, to make “a flag so large that the British will have no difficulty seeing it from a distance.”. She worked for 7 weeks to make the 30’ x 42’ flag with 15 stars and 15 stripes. Their defense of the fort against the British forces during the Battle of Baltimore in September of 1814 inspired Francis Scott Key to write our US National Anthem. We also toured the Star-Spangled Banner Flag House, built in 793 on the north side of the harbor, where Mary Pickersgill lived and worked. 

Once in the harbor, the eastern portion is lined with Historic Ships of Baltimore. For around $20 you can tour 4 different ships and the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse. The USS Constellation was built in 1854 and is the last sail-only warship that was designed and built by the US Navy. This ship was cool to visit since they allow you to view the majority of the vessel with very little of it blocked off. The US Coast Guard Cutter 37 was commissioned in 1936 and had over 50 years of service in both war and peacetime. The LV116 Chesapeake is a lightship that was completed in 1930 and served for more than 20 years at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. The USS Torsk is a submarine that was commissioned in 1944 and was the only sub of its Tench Class fleet to see service during WWII. We were also able to tour the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse. It was originally built in 1856 and put at the mouth of the Patapsco River to light the river from the Chesapeake Bay up to Baltimore. It was automated in 1949 and removed in 1988 to become a museum. 

Also, along the inner harbor, you can find the National Aquarium and Maryland Science Center which are always fun, especially on rainy days. A short bike ride away is the Baltimore Museum of Industry. This was a quirky museum that explores the varied and significant industries and innovations that have come out of Baltimore and its surrounding areas. We also visited the B & O Railroad Museum which began in 1830 and, paired with a thriving harbor, helped to make Baltimore a major transportation and industry/manufacturing hub. The museum boasts the oldest and most comprehensive American railroad collection in the world. 

When we weren’t wandering through museums and historical sites, we tried to hit all of the breweries that were within walking or biking distance from the harbor. Though we enjoyed each one, Mobtown Brewing, M8 Brewing and the Ministry of Brewing were our favorites. M8 brews some unique beer styles from Australia and New Zealand which makes it stand out from the other nearby breweries. The Ministry of Brewing is located in what was once St. Michael’s Church with old pews and beer tanks up at the pulpit and choir loft areas making a very cool vibe and their beer was great too. 

While we weren’t working on the boat, we continued to reap the benefits of being in a big town. We were able to see the Orioles get a W at Camden Yards. We decided to pass on Ravens tickets as they were a bit out of our budget. However, the Hot Wheels Monster Truck show was a good time. We’ve also been treating ourselves with good food throughout the city, but especially in Little Italy where you can’t go wrong with any place you choose. We also made Uber’s day by using them to get us to/from the Pirate weekend at the Maryland Renaissance Festival. 

Even though we’re on our boat 24/7, we are still fascinated with other ships, new and old. We were able to tour new boats at Baltimore’s Trawler Fest and Annapolis’ Sailboat Show. We also had the privilege to walk aboard and view the small and tall ships which participated in the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. 

We have definitely figured out why Baltimore is called the “Charm City” and it has swept us off our feet. We’ve loved exploring the Inner Harbor area and branching out when we find something that we want to explore. We’ve done so much in our short time here that I didn’t even include it all. We’re currently still in here finishing up boat projects and prepping to start our trip toward Florida and, ultimately, the Bahamas. Skål!

A ship in a harbor is safe but that is not what ships are built for. 
- John A Shedd