After 2 separate trips to Baltimore, for both fun and boat projects, we were happy-sad to be heading south again. This winter, we’re again heading back down the east coast and to the Bahamas. Though we’re still putting together our Bahamas route, we know that we want to try and maximize our time in the clear blue water and white sandy beaches. To make this happen, we’ve left the Chesapeake 2 months earlier than last year and we’re trying to not spend much time in each location as we head south. This trip down, we’re also trying to go offshore for bigger jumps between locations and to avoid the stress of navigating the shallows and the short hours of daylight in the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW). We can cover more miles by going offshore and taking shifts at the helm to get through an overnight passage. However, since we are also very conservative when we travel, the ICW is a great alternative when the conditions in the Atlantic are less than favorable.
Norfolk / Portsmouth, VA: We started our trip in Baltimore before the sun on Saturday, November 2 to make the 158nm to Norfolk/Portsmouth, VA. in just under 28 hours. Typically, the wind in Chesapeake blows from a southerly direction and since we were headed south, we needed to wait for a cold front to come through so that the wind direction would change and be from the north. We were able to turn off the motor and just sail the majority of the time with an average of 5.7 knots. This was good speed for us, especially since we’re getting better at trimming our sails for going downwind on a broad reach or a run sail configuration. (points of sail). We stayed at Tidewater Marina in Portsmouth for 4 nights to let some rain move through and to rest up for our next series of stops. We love going to Portsmouth since the historic district, restaurants, and shops are all within a short walking distance from the marina. Of course we had to support the local brewpub, Post Secondary Brewing and take the water taxi across to downtown Norfolk for an amazing burger at Jack Brown’s. The views of the naval ships in port are always awe inspiring but to see them lit up at night is truly extraordinary.
Coinjock, NC: After our short stay in Portsmouth, we started our journey through the North Carolina’s Tidewater region at mile 0 on the ICW. Our next stop was at ICW mile marker 50 and in between us were a series of 7 swing, bascule or lift bridges and 1 lock. Our first railroad bridge, the Belt Line at MM 2.6, set the tone of the day with a delay as we had to wait for multiple trains to pass by before the lift would open and let us through. This delay also meant that our timing was off for the subsequent bridges and lock as most only open on the hour and half hour. It took us 5 hours just to make it 18nm. We were able to make up some time by throwing up our sails to motor-sail to our destination of Coinjock Marina just as the sun was setting.
Alligator River, Columbia, NC: Having had a good night’s sleep after our long travel day to Coinjock, we allowed ourselves to sleep in a bit before making a short 5.5 hour jump to the Alligator River Marina. Though it’s just a small marina run by a gas station just off the Albemarle Sound, I had read online that they would be closed to boats due to the construction of a new bridge. Luckily for us, the construction was delayed and we got to stay there, refuel and stock up on the locally made cinnamon hard candy that they sell in the store.
Belhaven, NC: The wind picked up overnight and was blowing a steady 20 knots from the north when we were exiting the Alligator River Marina making it a very choppy and wet start to our long travel day. We had about 45nm to go to reach Belhaven Marina. The wind picked up to a consistent 25kts from the north which pushed along at 7kts with just a sliver of our jib/head sail out. We found some respite from the wind when we entered the canal heading to the Pungo River. By the time we reached the marina, the wind had settled down and we easily docked for the night. We choose to go to Belhaven Marina instead of the nearby Dowry Creek Marina, where a lot of other cruisers visit, so that we can visit with Bryan, the Owner/Brewer of ICW Brewery and then head down the road to the local Mexican restaurant, El Mariachi Mex & Grill.
Oriental, NC: We typically like to stay more time in Belhaven as the people are friendly, the beer/food are good and the laundry is free but we left out with the sun again to cover 41nm and reach the Oriental Marina & Inn. We had a strong wind from the east which made a portion of this leg of the trip a bit feisty as we were sailing close to the wind/close hauled and pounding into the waves but it was only for about an hour of our 7.5 journey. We spent 2 nights in Oriental to wait out some rain that was supposed to come the next day. The extra day was also nice to relax on the boat after so many days of traveling.
Beaufort, NC: Once the skies cleared, we pushed away from the dock in Oriental and made the short 20nm trip to Town Creek Marina in Beaufort, NC. We were scheduled to stay for only 4 nights or until a weather window opens to finally get to go offshore. In those 4 nights, we weathered a cold front with 30kt winds but held fast in our floating slip which was nicely tucked in up against the bulkhead/shore. We also hit some of our favorite places in town to eat: Turner Street Market for breakfast and the Black Sheep for dinner. Of course, we also had to hit the local breweries, Fishtowne Brew House and Mill Whistle Brewing. We also met back up with Scott, a fellow cruiser on his 34’ catamaran named Genesis, whom we met a few stops prior in Belhaven. We had fun hanging out and showing him our favorite places in town, and helping him devour a large pot of chili.
Southport, NC: We didn’t have to extend our stay in Beaufort as a weather window opened up right on time for us to head offshore and to Southport, NC. This would include 68nm from Town Creek Marina to the Masonboro Inlet just outside of Wrightsville Beach, then about 20nm down the ICW to Deep Point Marina in Southport. Typically, we try to time our offshore passages so that we leave on a favorable tide and then get to our inlet in the daytime and preferably with a favorable tide. This time, we left Beaufort earlier than we wanted to but with an outgoing tide since the current can reach 3+ knots (we only go 5.5 under motor). We had good wind with us from the N, NW and we sailed all the 14 hours, making good time across the Atlantic. We expected to have the wind drop causing us to slow and get us to Masonboro inlet at sunrise, but the wind was steady and we made the decision to enter the inlet around 3am. With the full moon, and ingoing tide, our previous tracks and the ICW track from Bob423, we pressed on south down the ICW and toward Southport. It was nerve wracking with the navigational markers not being lit and knowing that they can often move with the wind or be hit by other boats. We finally made it after fighting the incoming tide in the Cape Fear River, which at one point was 3kts against us. It’s all about timing…
You might be asking: why don’t you sail offshore from Norfolk to Beaufort or to Southport? Why take the ICW through the NC Tidewater Region? Cape Hatteras is one island in the long chain of barrier islands just off the east coast of North Carolina known as the Outer Banks. The Cape Hatteras National Seashore is roughly 70 miles of the 125-mile outer islands. It is known to have shallow water, shifting sandbars and confused waves giving it the nickname of the “graveyard of the Atlantic” with over 1000 ships lost in its waters. You need a forecast of very calm wind and wave conditions for at least 24+ hours before planning this route. Also, if you had any difficulties along the passage, there are only a handful of inlets that could be used to access land/marinas. These inlets require local knowledge as they are known to be narrow and shallow with shifting sands/shoals. From the Tidewater Marina in Portsmouth to Town Creek Marina in Beaufort, It would be roughly a 48 hour sail for almost 240 nm which would definitely be shorter than our 63 hours and 341 nm and 4 stops in between. But we like the piece of mind that the inner ICW route gives us and think of all the scenery and breweries we would miss along the way.
Currently, on this journey south, we’ve traveled 429 nm and 82 hours, 28 minutes with many more to go. So, I guess it is all about timing: time to enjoy the ride, time to wait out a storm, time to spend with family, time to make new friends, and time to form core memories that will last a lifetime.
“Time and tide wait for no man” — Robert Frost
